The turquoise acid lake deep inside Kawah Ijen (Ijen crater) looks like it could be home to one of James Bond's diabolical foes. Incredibly beautiful, but possessing the strength of car battery acid, Kawah Ijen is the world's largest sulfuric acid lake.
Traveling to this remote part of East Java Indonesia, I was overwhelmed by the scenery and humbled by the men who earn their living here. Kawah Ijen is the site of an extremely labour intensive sulfur mining operation. Watching the miners go about their daily work—a job so physically demanding and dangerous— you'll think twice about ever complaining about your job.
The Hike to Kawah Ijen
From the car park at Pos Paltuding, the 3 km (1.5 hour) hike to the rim of Ijen crater is well marked and not particularly difficult, but it is all uphill so you need to be fit. It's best to visit in the dry season (April-October) and hike early in the morning before the clouds roll in and obscure the view.
The first section of the hike is on a wide, well worn track and travels through a tropical, misty forest. In 2 km, you come to a small shelter that is used as a sulfur weighing station and a rest stop for the miners. Beyond there, the trail narrows but the views open up to lush forest slopes and the volcanic landscape of the Ijen Plateau.
You'll notice the distinct, unpleasant sulfur odor as you approach the crater's rim. Bring a bandana to cover your mouth and nose. The view from the rim is stunning. The 200 m deep lake sits inside the Ijen crater and its almost garish blue-green colour contrasts sharply with the sheer, grey crater walls.
Many people are content with the view from the rim, and signs warn that it is dangerous to go beyond this point. If you must get a closer look, exercise extreme caution on the steep, rocky path that leads into the crater and down to the sulfur deposits and steaming vents of acidic gases.
The Ijen Sulfur Miners
Two hundred meters below the rim, near the edge of the lake, miners work in inferno-like conditions. Molten sulfur drips slowly from the end of ceramic pipes and pools on the ground where it cools, solidifies, and turns bright yellow. Workers use crowbars to break the sulfur into chunks that they load into large baskets. The fumes are intense but miners use no protective equipment. Most wear only thin t-shirts, cotton pants, and flimsy rubber boots.
When baskets are filled, miners walk back up to the rim on the perilously steep trail carrying 60-80 kg loads. They deliver the sulfur 3km down the mountain, and then they walk back up and do it all over again. The Ijen miners are paid by the weight of sulfur they transport each day. The average wage is 10-13 US$/day.
The miners and their huge yellow burdens provide great photo opportunities, but ask permission. Most are fine with having their pictures taken, but appreciate a bit of change. These men are truly amazing, and they'll stay in your thoughts long after you've left Kawah Ijen.
How to Get to Kawah Ijen
The approach to Kawah Ijen is from Bondowoso from the west, and Banyuwangi from the east. Be prepared for a long, and in parts, very bumpy ride. The majority of visitors come on chartered transport or tours that include accommodations. This is easy to arrange from Yogyakarta, Malang and Surabaya on Java or from Bali.
It's tricky, but possible to get to Kawah Ijen independently. Lonely Planet's Indonesia Guide provides details, as does the excellent Ijen Plateau website.
Where to Stay When Visiting Kawah Ijen
Tours usually overnight at one of three places. The least expensive are Catimor and Arabika homestays near Sempol, about 14 km from Kawah Ijen. Most of the rooms there are basic at best—some are horrible. Ask to see other rooms if you're not happy. The only upmarket option, at considerably higher cost, is the Ijen Resort. Check with tour operators about where they stay and whether there is a choice of accommodations. Find full descriptions of these, and other places to stay at Ijen Plateau.
Consider a Kawah Ijen / Mount Bromo Combo
If you're in East Java you really should see its other top natural attraction—Mount Bromo. Many tours offer a combined Mount Bromo and Kawah Ijen excursion. These sites take some time and effort, but they are so worth it.
Caroline Helbig - Passionate about travel, outdoor adventure, and health and fitness, her work has appeared in numerous print and on-line publications.
